Snake care
Australian Snakes
There are 2 major families of snakes in Australia the Pythons and the Elapids, that are commonly kept in captivity. The other family is the Colubrids.
Pythons (Family Boidae)
Approx 14 species in Australia
Some of the largest species in the world are pythons- in excess of 8 m in length
Most have a prehensile tail which helps them coil around branches and hang from trees
All Aust. Pythons lay eggs that are incubated until hatching
Most are nocturnal but will bask during the day
Feed largely on birds and small mammals
Non venomous constrictors track prey by following scent particles or by using heat sensors around the lower jaw, this helps them track warm blooded prey
They strike at prey and secure it then suffocate it by constriction
The jaw expands and dislocates to eat prey
The most commonly kept pythons can only be kept in Qld if you hold a Recreational Wildlife Licence. Rare species need a special amendment to the licence approved by Environmental Protection Agency.
Colubrid Snakes (Family Colubridae)
Include the non-venomous Common Tree Snake & Brown Tree Snake (Qld)
They have rear fangs instead of front fangs and none are venomous.
Front Fanged Snakes (Family Elapidae)
Family of venomous snakes
Majority of land snakes belong to this family
Short hollow front fangs connected to a venom gland
Lay in wait for prey or pick up scent particles and then strike and inject with venom
Consume prey by expanding jaws
77 species of Elapidae in Australia
Can only be kept on a Recreational Licence amended for restricted species
Commonly Kept Snakes
Childrens Python
Carpet/Diamond/Jungle Pythons
Water Python
Brown Tree Snake
Olive Python
Common Tree Snake
On the Licence that the pet shop has we can only sell Childrens Python, Small blotched Python &
OBTAINING SNAKES
Obtaining a snake has to be according to the legislation set out in the Nature Conservation Act. This act can be found in the document Operational Guidelines; Keeping of Reptiles- Conditions and Restrictions.
If you wish to keep a snake , lizard or most amphibians in QLD you must obtain a licence from EPA. Licences are renewed every 5 years and the cost is $50.00.
To get the licence you must be over 13years of age and reside at a permanent address. You must obtain your snake. Lizard or amphibian can only be brought from a licensed dealer/person.
FEEDING
Snakes in captivity can eat live or frozen food ( mice, rats, frogs). The frozen food must be warmed to room temperature and can be shaken slightly to encourage the snake to strike. Never leave live food in the enclosure overnight with a snake as it could attack the snake and cause injury.
GENERAL
If a snakes body condition appears cloudy it is probably about to slough and will not feed.
Snake species should not be mixed as they can be cannabilistic to each other.
Faeces must be removed regularly from the enclosure
A total clean should be done every few months
The cause of most health problems in snakes in captivity is from poor care. Correct feeding and cleanliness is as important as correct heating and lighting
Stress can be caused by overheating, wrong handling, over crowding etc
HANDLING
When you approach a snake you need to alert it to your presence by gently touching it with something if it is not moving or flicking its tongue. As they do not have movable eyes they can be easily startled. The snake then needs to be gently hooked at mid body out of its enclosure, whilst also holding the base of the tail. The head can then be held firmly and the lower body supported to avoid injury to the snakes spinal chord.
GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR KEEPING SNAKES AND LIZARDS
HOUSING AND ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS
Must comply with The Code of Practice Cage must be durable
You must provide the correct amount of space as required for the species
Should be washable or easy to clean
Provide easy access to the animal for removal and return to the cage
Have adequate ventilation
Provide seclusion in the form of a hiding spot
Provide adequate lighting and heating
In general the housing must meet all the needs of the animal.
TYPES OF HOUSING
Aquariums- Suitable for most species of lizards and some snakes when a secure lid has been fitted however large areas of glass do gain and lose heat rapidly. Animals can die of heat stress very quickly if not monitored.
Wooden, metal or glass and metal cages- more appropriate as easy to ventilate and provide warm and cool spots for the animal.
SUBSTRATES
This is the term used for floor coverings:
Newspaper- good for easy cleaning ie sick animals
Aquarium Gravel- hard to keep clean but is washable and looks natural
Peat Moss, sterile potting mix- not easy to clean when wet
Artificial turf- easy to clean, can be chemically sterilised and is reusable
Desert Blend, Repti bed etc- species specific- easy to maintain if used as per directions
Please remember that fine particles can be ingested or become lodged in nasal cavities. Some artificial turfs can also be abrasive around sensitive areas such as the cloaca.
CAGE FURNISHINGS
Hiding place- easily removable for access and cleaning. Can be any shape or size according to the species requirements eg PVC pipe, terracotta, fibreglass, real logs etc (real logs are hard to clean and sterilise and could introduce bad bacteria into the animals environment)
Water Bowls/Ponds- essential although some species require spraying while others need to be able to submerse in the dish.
Rocks/ Branches- if using real ones they need to be replaced periodically
Large rocks can pose a problem if they fall and injure the animal.
Furnishings should be kept to a minimum for ease of capture and cleaning. Live plants look nice but are harder to clean.
LIGHTING
Not a necessity if kept in outdoor enclosures
Reptiles and amphibians need access to full spectrum lighting (-especially UVB) if kept indoors. UVB is essential to Vitamin D synthesis and calcium metabolism. UVA is essential for reptiles to be able to see properly and if the correct light is not available it can affect the animals behaviour and how they visualize food.
More detailed information on this area can be found in the Exoterra Reptile Lighting Guide book on pg18.
Full spectrum fluro tubes simulate natural sunlight and help stimulate the appetite of poor feeders.
Light should be provided above the roof of the enclosure and based on a 12 hour daylight cycle depending on the season.
Black night lights also have a high UV output.
VENTILATION
It is important to allow some air flow but not too much as it can mean dramatic temperature changes within the cage.
HEATING
Heating can be in the form of heat lamps, heat bulbs, porcelain heat lamps, heat pads or heat rocks etc.
Most species need a temp. range of 25-30 degrees. There must be a gradient range of higher and lower temperatures in the animals enclosure. This is so that the animal can choose where it wants to be in a warm spot or a cool spot or in between.
Temperature should be thermostatically controlled. Some species need to cool down in winter and during this time should not be fed or disturbed in anyway.
Temperature should be monitored at the heat source and at the point furthest away form the heat source also.
FEEDING
The correct environmental temperature is of utmost importance when feeding reptiles. The animals must be warm to feed and digest properly. Temperature must be consistent before during and after a meal, otherwise regurgitation and even death can occur.
WATER
Fresh water needs to be given daily and if using tap water, it needs to have a suitable chlorine neutraliser added.
APPETITES
Some species will over feed if allowed to do so. Food should be offered on a regular basis and should be fresh according to species. With snakes, frozen food needs to be warmed to room temperature and can be offered by giving with a pair of tongs. When animals go into a new environment, they can often go off food for a period of time. Snakes for example, can sometimes not feed for weeks or even months. Food should still be offered regularly.
PARASITES
Parasites can be either external (ectoparasite) or internal (endoparasite).
Mites:
The most common external parasite found in snakes and lizards are mites. They can be found around the eyes, body and anus. Sometimes you can see raised scales or tiny white spots on the animals. This is the mite faeces. Mites suck blood and breed very quickly. Mites can debilitate animals and also spread infection. There are safe sprays to use specifically designed to eradicate mites off snakes and lizards. The cage needs to be fumigated also.
Gastrointestinal Worms:
These are internal worms and come in the form of round, tape and tongue worms as well as flukes, protozoans and other less common ones. A vet looking under a microscope at a faeces sample can identify a case of worms.
Feeding your lizard or snake clean food will eliminate the risk of parasites of any type.