Aquarium Care

THE MARINE ACQUARIUM

Is a marine tank harder to look after than freshwater?
A. Not really! Just need the correct equipment, (eg: Canister filter, protein skimmer, test kits, lighting) and knowledge. (from Books and staff)
What do I need to change my freshwater to marine? A. Everything listed below that you don’t already have.

Equipment Needed for marine tank
- Tank: Preferably larger than 100L. Because a larger volume is more stable with temperature and changes in chemistry.
- External Canister or trickle filter (we recommend Fluval): It is important to have a large surface area for bacteria to grow on, which helps keep ammonia and nitrites low.
- Marine Grit or White CC Gravel: This not only gives a marine look but also buffers the water to maintain the high pH of 8.1- 8.3
- Saltwater: Synthetic or Natural. Natural seawater is better collected off the coast, particularly during summer as run off from rain affects salinity. Do you see reefs growing along the coast? Synthetic is convenient and does not add possible parasites. Tap water must be neutralised (use prime) before salt mix is added.
- Heater and Thermometer: It is very important to keep temperature stable, around 26 degrees Celsius. It is also important to keep the temperature below 30 Degrees or corals and fish will start to die.
- Lighting: For a fish only tank, a single fluro tube is adequate. If corals and anemones are to be kept then it is best to have two to three tubes. It is important to have a large portion of blue spectrum (actinic blue). A good combination is 50/50, 10000K, and Actinic, which are all made by Coralife. Remember you can’t have enough light.
- Protein skimmer: Very important part of the filtration, it takes out waste, mainly proteins, before it builds up in the aquarium. Two types are available: 1. Air driven (lees), requiring an air pump and 2. Venturi (Queeen2000), requiring a power head eg, Atman104.
- Hydrometer: Measures the salinity (specific gravity) of the water. The level needs to be kept between 1.021 and 1.023. Two types are available, the cheaper glass floating hydrometer and the more accurate needle type (Crystal Sea).
- Ammonia Test Kit: Very important test, as marine life are sensitive to rising levels. Made worse by the fact that ammonia is more toxic at high ph levels (Ideal level is zero).
We sell two types
1. Seachem Ammonia alert: Continually sensors for toxic ammonia levels, last about 12 months, is easy and convenient. Does not specify actual level, only safe, alert, alarm, and toxic.
2. Hagen Ammonia test kit: Liquid test kit that takes 20min to achieve a colour, giving a specific level of ammonia. Use Purigen, Prime, Amguard, or water change to reduce.
- Nitrite Test Kit: Nitrite is the result of ammonia being broken down by bacteria, is also very toxic to marine life. (Ideal level is Zero). Use Purigen, Green X, or water change to reduce.
- Nitrate Test Kit: Nitrate is the result of Nitrite being broken down by bacteria. Is not very toxic to fish, but is to Invertebrates. Keep levels low. Algae also blooms on nitrate. Use Purigen, Green X, or water change to reduce.
- High Range pH Test Kit: Can’t use normal pH test kit as it only goes up to 7.6. The marine pH needs to be 8.3, use Marine buffer to raise the pH.
- Phosphate Test Kit: Phosphate is one of the products of decomposing waste, and keeps building up in the aquarium. Is a good food source for algae, thus causing it to grow out of control if phosphate levels are high. Use Phos-Zorb, Phosquard, Green X, or water change to reduce.
- Cleaning Equipment: Gravel Cleaner and Magnet cleaner.
- Live Rock: Dead coral with living algae and small invertebrates on it. Can be introduced into the aquarium when pH and Salinity have been stabilized (usually in a few days after setting up). The Live rock acts as part of the filtration, by being a large surface area for bacteria to develop on, therefore more is better. It works best by having good water movement through it, this is where an extra power head helps in the tank. Note: when adding live rock to a tank, rotate under water to remove all air pockets within rock.

Setting up a marine Aquarium

1. Choose a location for the aquarium. Best located away from doors and windows. It is also important to be in a room that does not get hot in summer. Water needs to be kept below 30 degrees.
2. Wash gravel or marine grit with water before placing in the aquarium. Needs to be around 3cm in depth.
3. ¾ fill tank with tap water, add appropriate amount of Prime (water conditioner) to neutralise chlorine.
4. Add marine Salt, while mixing water, until specific gravity (Salinity) is 1.022, using your hydrometer.
5. Install canister filter (eg. Fluval, Don’t forget to add adsorption materials eg. Green X, perigean, phosquard), heater, and protein skimmer as per manufactures instructions. Do not turn on.
6. Retest salinity. Add fresh water if over 1.022, or more marine salt if below. Make up more saltwater in a bucket and add to the aquarium until water level is about 5cm from the top of the tank. (space is left in case more fresh water is needed to reduce salinity)
7. Turn on filter (as per instructions, it will slightly drop water level), heater (set to 26 degrees), and protein skimmer. Let run for a few hours. Check Salinity again, adjust accordingly, and check pH level with high range pH test Kit. If below 8.3, Marine Buffer must be added. Fill tank with saltwater until water level is now about 2-3cm from top of tank. (Mark water level with permanent marker on side of tank). If over time water drops below this level, and you have not removed any water, this will be from evaporation. Fresh water is then added to aquarium to refill back to the mark made) Always recheck with hydrometer.
8. Install Lighting ( need to be on at least 10-12 hours per day) and Let aquarium operate for a couple of days, retest pH and Salinity. Adjust if needed.
9. If pH and Salinity are correct it is now time to purchase Live Rock. This will not only add a reef look, but add beneficial bacteria to your tank. A good amount of live rock will mean a smoother setup period.
10. Test and record your ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH every few days for the next week. If there is no increase in ammonia, nitrite or nitrate it is time to add your first fish. Start with something hardy eg. Damsels or Clownfish. If the levels are increasing, keep monitoring until levels decrease back to zero.
11. Keep monitoring these parameters adding a new fish each week if levels are zero. You can start to add corals after 4 weeks if tank has stabilized and ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels are zero. If you do it gradually you will have minimal problems.
12. Don’t forget to continually monitor you parameters at least once a week. If you do encounter any increasing levels, please consult one of our aquarium staff to minimise the possibility of any fish loss.
Date Ammonia Nitrite Nitrate Phosphate Salinity pH

Marine Aquarium Maintenance

1.Clean aquarium sides, when required, with algae cleaner eg. Magnet cleaner.
2. Do a 10-15% water change fortnightly, using a gravel vacuum, to clean the gravel at the same time. Have saltwater pre-made in buckets, ready to refill the tank. (only use new buckets that have been set aside for your fish)
3. Test water parameters and adjust if required. Ideal Level Acceptable Level Action required if levels are out of acceptable Ammonia 0 mg/L < 1.2mg/L Add, Prime, Amguard, Purigen, or 25% water change. Nitrite 0 mg/L < 0.3mg/L Add, Purigen, Green X, Prime, or 25% water change Nitrate < 5mg/L < 20mg/L Add Purigen, Green X, Prime, or 25% water change Phosphate 0 mg/L < 1mg/L Add Phosguard, Phos-Zorb, Green X, or 25% water change pH 8.2 8.1 – 8.3 Add Marine Buffer if below 8.1 Salinity 1.022 1.021 – 1.023 Add freshwater if above 1.023 or add more marine salt if below 1.021
4. Empty protein skimmer cup as needed.
5. Clean Filter as per instruction manual. A canister filter should be cleaned at least every 2 months or if water flow is greatly reduced

SMALL BOWL or TANK

1. Choose a location for your bowl away from direct sunlight and air conditioning vents.
2. Rinse gravel an bowel thoroughly with clean water. (Never use any cleaning agents.)
3. Work out volume and then ¾ fill bowl with tap water. Add correct dose of water conditioner, (Betta Basics or Gold Basics) according to the species of fish chosen.
4. Float fish in bag for approximately 15min (To acclimatise the fish), Let the fish out gently and add to your bowl.
5. Top up bowl with water to desired level.
6. Enjoy your fish and thank you for shopping at the Mackay Pet Super Store.

BOWL MAINTENANCE

1. Wipe sides of bowl with a new, clean, soft, cloth to remove algae/slime when necessary.
2. carry out a ½ to full water change weekly (Depending on how dirty gravel looks) to remove excess waste from water and gravel. If a full water change is done, remove fish first and place in a clean container with existing water.
3. Re-fill the bowl with fresh water, add water conditioner and carefully replace fish into bowl along with the existing water.
4. Feed fish daily with good quality food (e.g. Tetra). Do not overfeed!
5. If there are any signs of stress or illness (e.g. clamped fins, white film, spots, or not eating please contact our friendly staff for some helpful information. Delayed treatment may cause fish fatality.